Supporting pictures here:
http://maslows.net:12110/Site/Photos/Pages/Hawaii.htmlI suppose Honolulu-Waikiki was what I expected out of Hawaii - a very tourist dependent economy with lower taxes than most states to make shopping 'friendlier' to visitors, fancy hotels and crowded beaches. A place for people to go who want to be seen, in a bikini. Basically like Los Angeles or some of the major Florida beaches. You don't initially see any reason to have travelled 5 hours to get here.
The interesting part of Honolulu was to find the small places where tourists weren't around. For instance the bento counter where the owner addressed a probable regular customer and her kids in Japanese, then when leaving her kids turned to the owner and said 'Good Bye' in English. (Good chicken with ponzu sauce and very properly done sticky white rice - chopstick friendly) Or the drive-in restaurant a dozen streets back from the beach which did not have a single rental car in the parking lot. There is normal city life there, it's just not obvious.
Going to the north shore of Oahu was a very quick and stark contrast - the beaches were nearly empty, and the only crowded places were the good restaurants in the small beach-y towns. It's a relaxing place. Only a half hour from all the conveniences of a major city, yet it might as well be an entirely different island.
However the vacation really started after leaving Oahu for the big island. Oahu, even on the north shore, seems 'normal' and 'American' - everything is familiar. Hilo and the volcano seem to represent Hawaii as it was when it was its own country - and it's infinitely more interesting for it.
- The Hilo airport doesn't have walls on all sides. There are comfortable padded lounge chairs in the main lobby area, which is not air conditioned - the breeze is comfortable even on an 80 degree day. In this era of making a grand show of security it's refreshing to see a chain link fence as the most formidable barrier.
- Even the main hotel area of Hilo, Banyan Drive, hasn't changed since it was built in the late 50's/early 60's. Hotels are family run, restaurants use locally grown or caught ingredients, the beach-y areas are filled with decidedly non-tourists - families setting up a tent and grill for the afternoon, children play on the rocks in the bay, so on. The local drive in menu is half American, half Polynesian. Quaint is the word I'm looking for, or a tropical version of Lake Woebegon(e), I suppose.
- The volcanic national park is a interesting geology 101 course - see how earth gets made - plate tectonics at work. And the miles of desolation caused by lava flows are beautifully alien to someone that is used to hiking in forests. Trees do provide shade though, which would have been appreciated, as it was hot.
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Rental cars:
- Chrysler Sebring convertible. This is the absolute worst car that I have driven. I was about to add 'except for any early 90's GM product' but even those didn't break during the rental period. Partial brake failure is one thing, falling-apart levels of quality at 20k miles is another.
- Hyundai Elantra. Perfect commuter car. Quiet, comfortable, good design. Mini-Lexus levels of fit and finish. Nice sound system. Just over 12 grand brand new - that's incredible value.
- Chevrolet Corvette. Plasticky, garish, yellow, chrome, showy, extroverted... everything I don't like in a car. And yet - the ride is comfortable and the exhaust is quiet when cruising, the engine/automatic-transmission combination is perfect, and the handling is very easy to exploit. 2nd gear through a tunnel at 60mph is one of the better automotive experiences you can have. Tire smoking sliding exits from parking lots, with an automatic transmission no less, is another. Passing a car on a 2 lane road with a quick tap of the downshift button is a third. To drive it is as fun as my previous BMW 540 or Porsche. To be seen in... I just wouldn't fit. Maybe in dark grey or black, no stripes, no chrome, maybe.